We had a good crew, international and experienced in one way or
another Jerki Kivi, from Helsinki, a lifelong sailor and navigator in
the Baltic; Tommi Buckley of Southhampton, England, a young man born
in Finland also, but to an New Zeland father and Finish mother who
were living in England while the father complete yacht design school;
Jeremy ____ of Australia, not so experienced in sailing, but many
years experience running diesels on heavy equipment; and me, Ben
Smith, who made up for my lack of years sailing (only ten) with
knowing the boat from its very inception.
We had spent several days preparing for our first large ocean
passage. I had anticipated that this crossing, though shorter, would
be more difficult than actually crossing the Atlantic. The endless
parade of low pressure centers across the Irish Sea and the North Sea
threatened us with high winds and steep chaotic seas. We watched the
weather charts carefully, waiting for a stable high pressure south of
England. By Tuesday, the 17th of October, we had completed our
provisioning and had had the ship's compass adjusted. I made the
decision to leave the next morning with the tide.
We cast off from the marina dock at Falmouth at 0944, on the
18th. The winds were light and shifting. We achieved only 4.8 knots
through the water, but the tidal current boosted our true speed to an
acceptable 6.0 knots. That first night we headed more west in order to
fill our sails and point more out into the open Atlantic, away from
the troubled waters of the Bay of Biscay once we had left the English
Channel. The water temperature was a cold 11.9 degrees Celsius.
By noon the second day, we started the engine and began
motorsailing. The light winds had become a problem. We had 1300 miles
to go to Tenerife, but our excitement didn't pale from the problematic
wind. We each looked forward to our 2 hour long watches, the time in
which the boat and the sailing was our responsibility. The daytime
off watch was usually spent with the other crew members in the
saloon. We hadn't yet found our sea legs, so reading wasn't yet part
of the activities. We ate hot meals which took an extra effort to
prepare because of the roll of the boat for the English waters.
By that evening, the wind had steadied on its point and had
increased to 12 meters/second. While it was my watch, I had all sail
set on a beam reach. We crashed along through the steep seas at 6
knots with the genoa hauled tight. But at 1830, the genoa sheet chafed
through at the genoa track block. What had been exciting sailing
became dreary motorsailing. The wind continued to increase.
At 2100 the wind was up to 18 meters/second, but we were only able
to do 5.6 knots with the staysail, mainsail, mizzen, and engine. Each
crashing wave slowed us down.
Later that same evening, the stays'l halyard broke at the wire rope
eye. We had to furl the staysail. This lost would also prevent us from
sailing with the storms'l because it uses the same halyard as the
stays'l. This situation potentially dangerous. With the increasing
wind, we felt it important to reef the mails'l, but when setting the
reef, the crew put too much tension on the badly designed reefing line
and ripped the mains'l along the luff tape. We motored with just the
mizzen for stability. Not much resistance against the pitching and
rolling of the Spray hull, originally a fishing boat design intended
to be run with 20 tons of fish loading her to the gunwales, not as a
light pleasure sailboat.
It was dark and cold. The rough seas on our unaccustomed bodies led
to fatique and general malaise.
By this time we were about 30 miles southeast of the Scilly
Islands. We turned toward them with the intention of making repairs,
but when we calculated our arrival time, we realized it would still be
dark. Further reading about the approach and entry to these isolated
islands and the circle of reefs and rocks made us sober to the fact that
they were more dangerous than our current situation. I decided to head
to Portugal, roughly three or four days away, very close to the track
for Tenerife.
As dawn brightened the sky, everything looked better. We had made
the right decision to continue on south. The wind had shifted so we
went over to a starb'd tack allowing me to tie the two pieces of the
broken sheet together. Now we could get a little more push from the
wind. Even though we had enough fuel to motorsail to Portugal, the
additional sail power gave us a greater margin of safety.
Jerki and I got the mains'l off the boom and down below where he
set on to making the necessary repairs. For two days, he did little
more when off watch than sew on reinforcing tapes and repair the
grommets along the luff. Tommi was his second help, and I the
third. By the time the repairs were complete, we had broken all of the
straight sailmaker's needles. It was a good thing that we had all
become acclimated to the rolling and pitching, and so were able to do
the detailed work without even the slightest queezyness. We were able
to return the mains'l to service on the 21st.
The farther south we got, the better the weather and the better our
spirits. We were at 1000 nautical miles to Tenerife point on the 22 of
October. We were south of Finestere, the southern tip of Biscay.
By sunset on the 23rd, we were tied up in the Leixos sportboat
marina, the prefered point of entry for Portugal, adjacent to Porto,
Portugal. The next day we scrambled about, replacing the broken
stays'l halyard, buying additional blocks for the spinnaker, refilling
the water tanks, fueling, and a little provisioning. We droppend the
docklines at 1840 and headed out through the maze of anchored cargo
ships to our final course to Tenerife. We were completely under sail.
Our problems weren't over yet, though. At 0305 the next morning,
the tang for the boom vang tore away from the boom. We rigged a line
from end to end of the boom and attached the boom vang and preventors
to that. The wind slackened as the day went on. By 1900 we were
reduced to just using the motor.
We were able to hoist sails again a day later, on the 26th. We were
also able to make our first SSB radio communication with Ballu of
Venetia. Until then, I had not been certain that we were able to
transmit. Now my fears were relieved.
The closer we got to Tenerife, the more cheerful we became. Jerki's
girlfriend Rita would meet him there, and I, of course, was very
anxious to see my family again. We all sang sea shantys and cavorted
about the cabin. Dinners became festive events. Jeremy had brought two
guitars and Jerki, who is quite good, entertained us with an eclectic
stream of music. Tommi, Jerki, and I tried to fool poor Jeremy with
our magic tricks.
By the 27th of October, we had reached 35 degrees north latitude.
The sea temperature was now up to 20 degrees Celsius and the wind was
gone, so we stopped and swam. Well Jerki and Jeremy swam. Tommi barely
went in, while I just stayed on deck. (My excuse was that I didn't
want the boat to sail away without us.) Refreshed by the break, we
decided to play with some sails in the light wind. First, we raised
the spinnaker in the 3.5 meters/second breeze. We got 2.5 knots of
boat speed. Then we tried using the spare staysail as a mizzen
staysail, but finally ended up with it rigged as mule, between the
tops of the mizzen and main. It gave us about a half knot more. As
night came on, the wind hardened, and we went back to our normal
sails: mizzen, main, and genoa.
The next day, when the wind dropped, we tried the spinnaker
again. This time the wind was stronger and we broke our little
spinnaker pole in just a mater or seconds of filling the sail with
wind. Since we were going dead downwind, we tried sailing without the
pole. This lasted about two hours, until the spinnaker wrapped itself
about five times around the forestay.
The next few days had stronger winds, more on the beam. We were
able to maintain a good 6 knots average until we were within sight of
Gran Canaria on the evening of October 30th. We didn't want to
arrive in Santa Cruz, Tenerife at night, so we slowed down by just
motoring at four and a half knots.
That night before my dogwatch (0300-0500), I dreamed that the boat
was slowly filling with water. That we were racing against the
incoming water to get to shore. I awoke at 0230 and began my
watch somewhat sleepy, as is often the case for this time of night. I
started to realize that the sloshing of water from my dream was quite
real. I lifted some boards of the cabins sole, and discovered that the
bilge was overflowing and nearly to the level of the high current
wiring leading to the batteries. I check the electric bilge
pumps. They had been turned off! I started them and then started
pumping on the manual bilge pump. Very quickly the water was down to
an acceptable level where I could see where water was flowing from. It
appeared to be coming from under the main sweet water tank. I rigged
the portable electric bilge pump in that area to manage it, which it
did. The other bilges didn't appear to be refilling.
We were just hours away from Santa Cruz, Tenerife. In a few hours
it would be light enough to study the leak. When I completed my watch,
though, I did not go back to bed as was my custom. After all, we were
coming in to land for the first time in nearly a week.
Just as the sun was coming up, we made for the Santa Cruz harbor
entrance. We were tied up and safe inside the harbor at 0820 on the
31st of October. The leak didn't reappear during the entire week we
were in the Tenerife harbor. We checked all the probable places and
many other possibilities as well. No leak.
Gretchen met us at the dock just after we tied up. We all joined
her for breakfast at a local restaurant on shore. We were elated and
relieved to be at our destination after so many equipment failures. It
wouldn't be until we crossed to Gran Canaria that we discovered the
source of the water in the bilge.
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